This is an easy amigurumi pattern that can be made two ways. The easier way is using “soft legs.” Slightly more difficult, is the method using chenille stems (pipe cleaners) for the legs. If you are making the spider for a child, I would suggest using the soft leg version, because even with taking all the precautions of turning the ends of the chenille stems, there is still the possibility that it could poke out and be sharp. Please read through all the pattern directions and notes before beginning so you can decide how best to make your own spider.
This pattern is my property and is not to be copied or reposted. It should remain free and finished objects made from it may be sold, but credit must be given to me as the designer.
Copyright 2012 Author: Tina Le Page – Mad Crochet Lab, All rights reserved
Small amount of worsted weight yarn, any spider color of your choice will do.
Small amount of polyester fiberfill
Small amount of felt for eyes
Embroidery or invisible thread for sewing on eyes
Optional slick black fabric paint for “webbing” on spider man type spider
Stitch marker, use to mark last stitch in each round when making rounds
Crochet hook, size F, 3.75mm
4 chenille stems if making posable legs
Head and body (Made in one piece)
Round 1 – 6 SC in Magic Circle
Round 2 – Increase in each SC around = 12 SC
Round 3 – Increase by making *1 SC in next SC, 2 SC in next*, repeat around = 18 SC
Rounds 4-6 – SC around = 18 SC
Round 7 – Decrease by making *1 SC in next SC, 2 SC together*, repeat around = 12 SC
Round 8 – Decrease by making 2 SC together around = 6 SC
Round 9 – Increase by making 2 SC in each stitch around = 12 SC
Round 10 – Increase by making 2 SC in each stitch around = 24 SC
Round 11-16 – SC around = 24 SC
Round 17 – Decrease by making *1 SC in next SC, 2 SC together*, repeat around = 16 SC
Round 18 – Decrease by making *1 SC in next SC, 2 SC together*, repeat around and SC in last SC = 11 SC
Round 19 – Stuff, Decrease by making 2 SC together around, and make one SC in last SC = 6 SC.
Finish off by threading yarn tail into yarn needle and weaving through each outer loop of last round and gather tightly. Knot and hide tail inside body of spider.
Legs for Soft Leg Version
Step 1 – Ch 5.
Step 2 – SC in 2nd ch from hook, using top loop only – you will save other loop for working around the other side.
Step 3 – Ch 12 or however many to make a decent length leg – you will lose one stitch to turn
Step 4 – SC back down the ch length you just made, minus the first one to turn
Step 5 – Now SC in next ch on original ch 5 and repeat these steps, working on other other side of the original chain for the 5-8th legs, until you have all 8 legs. While you are working, the piece will start looking like a starfish shape. I’ve included a photo below, demonstrating in white yarn for visibility. Finish off after the 8th leg is complete, and attach to the bottom of your spider.
Optional – You could use slip stitches instead of the SC in the above steps for a slightly thinner, slightly more substantial (less soft) leg.
Legs for Chenille Stem Version (simple stitches but a bit more difficult to work around the chenille stems)
NOTE: After making this spider, I realize that it would probably be easier to make the legs first and then slip them onto the chenille stems, leaving a tail to sew them in place. But this was one of my early written patterns so that’s why it is written the way it is below and I’m slightly mad so that’s my story and I’m sticking to it. 😉 But really, do it the easy way and don’t kill yourself working around the chenille stems. You’re welcome!
Insert one chenille stem* on one side of the belly of the spider and have it poke out through the other side.
Round 1 – Attach yarn with a SC next to the chenille stem and make 4 SC going around it, bend it out of the way if necessary, when working because you can bend it back into place later
Round 2 through 9 – SC around = 4 SC (for spider man type spider, I made 5 rounds of red and switched to blue for the last 4 rounds), then slip stitch and finish off
Adjust the number of rounds according to your gauge. You may need more or less rounds to completely cover the chenille stem.
Repeat for other leg, then insert next chenille stem and repeat these steps until you have all 8 legs.
*Note: Do not insert all chenille stems at once, as shown in my second photo, because they will get in your way as you are working. 🙂 The photo was just to demonstrate the approximate chenille stem placement.